New Buderus G124X Install

Here are some pics of my Buderus boiler install. I will also be installing a Buderus ST150 indirect water heater. As you can see, installation is not complete. All comments, questions and suggestions are welcome. http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...Boiler0361.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...oiler03615.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...oiler03614.jpg I'd like to see more pics ... wider angle ... I do have a question. What's the pipe going into the bottom of the flow check valves for ? I much prefer an 'open' album so I don't have to jump back and forth to view the pics... couldn't hack yer password ! [quote=NJ Trooper;1427734]I'd like to see more pics ... wider angle ... I do have a question. What's the pipe going into the bottom of the flow check valves for ? I will take more wider angle pictures once I get the old gas fired water heater out of the way. Also remember that this is in progress. I hope to finish this weekend. The pipe coming out the bottom of the top flow check is a bypass line. Note that there is a globe valve on it. I don't know if I will be using it, but it is there none the less. The top line is the heating system zone and the bottom line is the Indirect zone. The bottom flow check has a plug in the other inlet. Here are some updated installation pictures of my Buderus boiler and Indirect water heater. http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...ll%20Finished/ unless you tell us your password ... you've got your album set to private . should be working now. Sorry. Other than the fact that everything looks pretty 'tight' back behind the boiler, and probably difficult to service, looks OK to me ... As far as the bypass goes... the valve to the left of the top flow check should probably have been a globe valve also. Ball valves aren't really intended for throttling purposes, and usually when setting up the bypass flows, two valves are involved. You would typically open the bypass a little, and close the supply a little... a bit at a time until you got the desired results. What type of radiation is installed in the home ? If it's fin-tube, you probably won't even need the bypass at all. You might want to support the pipe that the exp tank is hanging on with some strapping or such... Thanks NJ. Space was a concern. It is a bit tight, but I can get to what I need back there. As far as the bypass goes, I know that a globe on the supply side is preferred, but the bypass globe valve can work just fine if I do decide to use the bypass. The home uses copper fin tube baseboard. The main supply pipe that the expansion tank is hanging on is strapped to the wall. The pictures are probably somewhat deceiving also, about how close the stuff is, I would bet... if I saw it in person, I'd probably say, oh that's fine! With fin-tube, I'd be surprised if you did find that you need the bypass at all ... and even if you simply open that valve a crack or two, without choking down on the boiler, it will probably do what it needs to do. That's a slick way to pipe that, using the bottom port ... you've been reading the BG tutorials, aintcha? I see the straps on the main pipe... my concern would be that the weight of the tank torquing those elbows that it's hanging on. I would run a piece of strapping from the elbow at the tank, up and over the 1-1/4 main just above it. That tank is pretty light when it's empty... when the bladder fails (it will eventually), it can get pretty heavy. Even during normal operation it might weigh say 15 lb or so... Cheap insurance, as they say. Thanks Trooper, I think there are times that I will not need to supply 180 degree water to the baseboards. I don't have an outdoor reset. The aquastat is an L8148A and I need the 180 degree boiler water for the indirect water heater. I will take the tank strapping into consideration.

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