Troybilt TB475SS 4-cycle problem
Help this thing is driving me nuts. I have become the neighborhood, will you fix it for me guy, anyway, the problem: the trimmer is very hard to start it will give the impression that it is going to however it doesn't(pull the rope it runs for 2 seconds, pull again, runs for 2 seconds)when it eventualy starts it will idle as if it were new, just set and purr , however give it some throttle and it will increase speed(will not go to WOT)and then start to struggle, then die and then it's like starting all over. If it choke is put on slowly it makes no difference until the choke is full closed then it dies. Here we go: I checked spark arrestor is was clean, removed carb, soaked in Mac 6402 for 30 min, blew out with compressor, installed new diaphgram/gaskets, installed new fuel filter, adjusted valves AND--- it runs just like it did before I did anything. HELP, oh, and have a good one. Geo George,have you tried cleaning/replacing spark plug? Mike Take a look at the intake piece between the cylinder and carb. Make sure it isn't cracked, broken, or loose. Fuel line pinched limiting fuel supply? Fuel line cracked/leaking? Fuel filter clean? Fuel tank breathing properly? Installed the proper carburetor rebuild kit? Aftermarket or OEM kit? What did you adjust the valves at? I think I have done everything mentioned. Should the fuel tank have pressure while running? If I remove the fuel line from the carb after it has run it will push out fuel from the pressure. I have removed the carb again for cleaning, I think this time it will be longer than 30 min. It's a walbro WYL-187-1 and there are no adjustments so, it is what it is. It's amazing how much less patience we have as we get older. I just watched RIO BRAVIO on PBS with John Wayne and thought the acting was great, so this trimmer is but a minor problem. Thanks, and have a good one. Geo Sounds like you have checked just about everything, the only thing I would add is to check the flywheel key to see if the timing might be off some as that would definitely cause problems with the running. When you had the valve cover off did you check the rocker arms to make sure there is not significant wear at the pivot point? Good Luck .. 30 year I adjusted the valves, .005 intake .o15 exhaust, there didn't seem to be any slop in the the rocker assembly. I took it down to the block today and the little sucker doesn't have a key on the flywheel it is cast in the flywheel and showed no wear. I screwed something up putting it back together and the rope pull isn't working right, so will take it apart again tomorrow to fix that, it didn't look as though there is any adjustments on anything. After working on several newer small engines the quality has really went to throw away, I actually have started checking to see if MTD own the name before I get very excited about trying to fix something and that is sad. Have a good one. Geo It is sad Geo. I hate seeing all these raw materials put into a piece of equipment that is intended to be used a limited number of times and then occupy real estate at a landfill. Not only is it an extreme waste of our resources, it is aggravating when the stuff doesn't work. This isn't a rant about just one manufacturer, just low end equip. in general. I've gotten to the point where I rarely work on the consumer grade 2-strokes. I wind up losing money on them. Say you get one in with bad fuel lines. Ok, you spend some time putting in new lines. Now, you can start it...or maybe not...because the carb must have some junk in it because it won't run off choke. Well, you've already invested time putting in new lines, so might as well take the carb off and clean it out. So, now with a nice fresh carb and a good running engine, the cheap bushing in the end of the shaft gets smoking hot after running it for 15 minutes, or the muffler is clogged, or the flimsy throttle trigger snaps off, or, or or etc... and 4 hours later, you have $200 labor in a running trimmer worth 30 bucks. Aww Geo, now look what you've started, HAHA! Possible bad ignition module. The .015 on the exhaust is too much. Since these engines have very little valve lift as it is, this, alone, may be the trouble. I recommend setting both valves at .004. It is quite difficult to discern a good flywheel key from a bad one on these 'wheels. Did you note the position of the key in relation to the keyway in the crank when you disassembled it? [quote author=cheese link=topic=1249.msg9581#msg9581 date=1177916497]It is sad Geo. I hate seeing all these raw materials put into a piece of equipment that is intended to be used a limited number of times and then occupy real estate at a landfill. Not only is it an extreme waste of our resources, it is aggravating when the stuff doesn't work. This isn't a rant about just one manufacturer, just low end equip. in general. I've gotten to the point where I rarely work on the consumer grade 2-strokes. I wind up losing money on them. Say you get one in with bad fuel lines. Ok, you spend some time putting in new lines. Now, you can start it...or maybe not...because the carb must have some junk in it because it won't run off choke. Well, you've already invested time putting in new lines, so might as well take the carb off and clean it out. So, now with a nice fresh carb and a good running engine, the cheap bushing in the end of the shaft gets smoking hot after running it for 15 minutes, or the muffler is clogged, or the flimsy throttle trigger snaps off, or, or or etc... and 4 hours later, you have $200 labor in a running trimmer worth 30 bucks. Aww Geo, now look what you've started, HAHA![/quote] Look indeed I have a weedeater blower that I tore clear apart to find the recoil spring broke. Pull cord would not rewind. The spring sells for 8 bucks. I been waitin 3 weeks. Hope I never see the silly thing cuz I just KNOW I will have another 3 hours either makin it run or proving it won't :P Puey the valves settings are per Troybilt manual. When I took it apart today to check the pull rope I discovered the flywheel loose and discovered the key was sheared, so I guess it was already sheared and when I put it back together I knocked it the rest of the way off because it had fired for a short period when I first put it back together. I checked and the flywheel is about 35.00, why anyone would make a flywheel that you cant just replace the key is BS. If I were to charge the guy for the actual time I have spent on this thing just trying to find the problem, he could buy a dozen Walmart specials. If I had to do this stuff for a living I wouldn't touch a consumer grade product. Thanks to everyone and have a nice day. Geo If you want to put the flywheel back on, put some red locktite on the area where it fits the shaft, line up the broken key and the keyway on the shaft, and then tighten the stew out of the flywheel nut. Red locktite is pretty tough, and you may never get it off again, so make sure you get it right the first time and don't need to remove it again. I was having the same issues described above with my TB475SS and was surprised to find out it was a clogged screen inside the carburetor. you can soak the thing all day long and it will not fix the problem. Take the four screws around the primer bulb out and carefully disassemble the carb. The cast plate with the fuel inlet and outlet tubes is your culprit. Take a short piece of fuel line and put it on the from tank port and blow on it. If there is restriction then the screen is clogged. I used a can of computer air duster but WD-40 ect will work so long as you have the tube that comes with it. Hook your aresol can up to the fuel line and give it a squirt. It should blow the screen out of the carb. Clean it reassemble it and she should run like a top.. toypar; Thanks but that post was from Jun 2007, the trimmer is long gone to junk heaven, however I will remember your post if I run into the issue again. Have a good one. Geo A clogged screen can cause running problems, but soaking the carb properly will fix a varnished over screen.
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